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Design using a droplet-shaped vegetable motif

Paisley or paisley pattern is an ornamental material design using the boteh (Farsi: بته) or buta, a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper terminate. Of Western farsi origin, paisley designs became pop in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post–Mughal Empire versions of the design from India, peculiarly in the form of Kashmir shawls, and were then replicated locally.^[1]

Although the pino cone or almond-like course is of Persian origin, and the textile designs cramming many of them into a rich pattern are originally Indian, the English language name for the patterns derives from the town of Paisley, in the west of Scotland, a center for textiles where paisley designs were produced.^[ii]

English paisley shirts, 1960s or later

In the mid- to late 1960s, paisley became identified with psychedelic mode and enjoyed mainstream popularity, partly due to the Beatles.^[iii] Consequently, the style was especially popular during the Summer of Love in 1967. The company Fender fabricated a pink paisley version of their Telecaster guitar, by sticking paisley wallpaper onto the guitar bodies.^{[4] [5]}

Persian silk brocade with gold and silverish thread (golabetoon), woven in 1963.

The pattern is still normally seen in Britain and other English language-speaking countries on men's ties, waistcoats, and scarfs, and remains popular in other items of clothing and textiles in Iran and South and Central Asian countries.

Origins [edit]

Shawl fragment, India, 20th century

Some design scholars^{[ who? ]} believe the buta is the convergence of a stylized floral spray and a cypress tree: a Zoroastrian symbol of life and eternity.^[6] The "aptitude" cedar is also a sign of force and resistance but modesty. The floral motif was originated in the Sassanid dynasty and afterward in the Safavid dynasty of Persia (1501–1736), and was a major textile blueprint in Iran during the Qajar and Pahlavi dynasties. In these periods, the pattern was used to decorate royal regalia, crowns, and court garments, as well as textiles used by the general population.^{[ commendation needed ]} Persian and Central Asian designs usually range the motifs in orderly rows, with a plain background.

Ancient Indo-Iranian origins [edit]

At that place is significant speculation as to the origins and symbolism of Boteh Jehgeh, or "ancient motif", known in English as paisley.^[seven] With experts contesting different time periods for its emergence, to empathize the proliferation in the popularity of Boteh Jehgeh design and eventually Paisley, it is important to understand Southward Asian history. The early Indo-Iranian people flourished in Southern asia, where they somewhen exchanged linguistic, cultural, and fifty-fifty religious similarities.^[8] The ancient Indo-Iranian people shared a religion chosen Zoroastrianism.^[nine] Zoroastrianism, some experts^{[ who? ]} argue, served equally one of the primeval influences for Boteh Jegeh'southward pattern with the shape representing the cypress tree, an ancient zoroastrian religious symbol.^[9] Others^{[ who? ]} contest that the earliest representation of the patterns shape comes from the Sassanid Dynasty, who lived in modern-day Iran, dating to more 2,200 years BCE and remained in power until the 3rd century CE.^[ten] The design was representative of a tear drib.^[x] Some^{[ who? ]} volition argue that Boteh Jehgeh's origins stem from one-time religious behavior and its significant could symbolize the sun, a phoenix, or even an ancient Iranian religious sign for an hawkeye.^[7] Around the same fourth dimension, a pattern called Boteh was gaining popularity in Iran; the blueprint was a floral design, and was used every bit a loftier form decoration, mostly serving to decorate majestic items that belonged to those of high status.^[10] Information technology was said^{[ weasel words ]} to have been a pattern worn to correspond elite social status, such every bit that of nobility. The pattern was traditionally woven onto silk wearable using argent and gilt fabric.^[10] The earliest prove of the design being traded with other cultures was establish at the Red Sea, where it is predicted that the earliest trades took place as far back as the 15th century, with both Egyptian and Greek peoples.^{[ commendation needed ]}

Introduction of Boteh Jegeh to Western culture [edit]

In the 18th and 19th centuries, the British East India Visitor introduced Kashmir shawls from India to England and Scotland where they were extremely fashionable and presently duplicated.^[eleven] The first place in the western world to imitate the design was the town of Paisley in Scotland, Europe's top producer of textiles at this time.^[12] Before being produced in Paisley, thus gaining its name in western culture, the paisley pattern was originally referred to past westerners merely as merely pine and cone design.^[13] Technological innovation in fabric manufacturing effectually this time made it and then that western imitations of Kashmir shawls became competitive with Indian fabricated shawls from Kashmir.^[fourteen]

With the industrial revolution taking place in Europe, paisley shawls were manufactured at an industrial charge per unit, and while the shawls from India could be quite expensive at the time, manufacturing plant manufactured shawls made it so that the mode became commonplace amongst middle-class people, thus boosting the pattern'south popularity fifty-fifty more.^[13] While the western earth appropriated much of eastern civilization and design, the Boteh design was by far the most popular.^[14] Records signal that William Moorcroft, an English language man of affairs and explorer, visited the Himalayan mountains in the mid 19th century; upon his inflow, he was enthralled by Boteh designed Kashmir shawls and tried to arrange for entire families of Indian textile workers to move their lives to the United Kingdom.^[15] The earliest paisley shawls made in the United Kingdom, in Paisley, Scotland, were made out of fleece, a material that is put together in such a fashion that i side can be described as containing a soft, fluffy texture.

In Asia the paisley shawls were primarily worn past males ofttimes in formal or ceremonial contexts, just in Europe the shawls were primarily worn by women instead of men. While still holding an accurate resemblance to its original influence, the paisley design would brainstorm to change once it began to exist produced in western civilization, with dissimilar towns in the Uk applying their own spin to the design.^[16] The peak period of paisley every bit a fashionable pattern ended in the 1870s,^[17] perhaps every bit and then many cheap versions were on the market place.

The 1960s proved to be a massive fourth dimension of revival for the paisley design in western culture. Popular civilization in the Usa developed a sort of fixation on eastern cultures in which many traditionally Indian styles became popularized. Paisley served as ane of the styles to be revived, being worn by the likes of the Beatles, even the guitar company Fender used the design to decorate 1 of their about famous guitars, the Fender Telecaster. Today, the design remains common appearing on jewellery, arrange ties, pocket books, block decorations, tattoos, mouse pads for computers, scarves, and dresses. The pattern also influences piece of furniture design internationally, with many countries using the paisley design for things such every bit wallpaper, pillows, defunction, and bed spreads.^[13]

Local manufacturers in Marseille began to mass-produce the patterns via early fabric press processes in 1640. England, circa 1670, and Kingdom of the netherlands, in 1678, presently followed. This in turn provided Europe's weavers with more competition than they could behave, and the production and import of printed paisley was forbidden in France by royal decree from 1686 to 1759. However, enforcement near the end of that period was lax, and France had its own printed fabric manufacturing industry in place equally early at 1746 in some locales. Paisley was not the only blueprint produced by French textile printers; the demand for paisley which created the industry in that location also made possible production of native patterns such every bit toile de Jouy.^[18]

In the 19th century, European production of paisley increased, particularly in the Scottish town from which the blueprint takes its mod name. Soldiers returning from the colonies brought dwelling cashmere wool shawls from India, and the East India Company imported more. The blueprint was copied from the costly silk and wool Kashmir shawls and adapted first for use on handlooms, and, after 1820,^[nineteen] on Jacquard looms.

From roughly 1800 to 1850, the weavers of the town of Paisley in Renfrewshire, Scotland, became the foremost producers of Paisley shawls. Unique additions to their paw-looms and Jacquard looms allowed them to work in v colours when virtually weavers were producing paisley using merely two.^[19] The design became known as the Paisley pattern. By 1860, Paisley could produce shawls with xv colours, which was still simply a quarter of the colors in the multicolour paisleys then still existence imported from Kashmir.^[19] In add-on to the loom-woven fabric, the boondocks of Paisley became a major site for the manufacture of printed cotton wool and wool in the 19th century, according to the Paisley Museum and Art Galleries.^[20] The paisley pattern was being printed, rather than woven, onto other textiles, including cotton wool squares which were the precursors of the modernistic bandanna. Printed paisley was cheaper than the costly woven paisley and this added to its popularity. The key places of press paisley were United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland and the Alsace region of French republic.^[21]

At the 2010 Winter Olympics, Republic of azerbaijan'due south team sported colorful paisley trousers.^[22] It was the emblem of the 2012 FIFA U-17 Women's World Cup, held in Azerbaijan.

Islamic command in South Asia and spread of the design [edit]

In Persian language, Boteh can be translated to shrub or bush-league, while in Kashmir (Republic of india) information technology carried the same meaning just was referred to equally Buta, or Bu.^[13] One of the earliest bear witness of the pattern every bit information technology relates to Islamic civilization has been found at Noh Gumba mosque, in the city of Blakh in Afghanistan, where information technology is predicted that the pattern was included in the blueprint as early on as the 800s when the mosque was built. In early on Iranian civilisation, the design was woven onto Termeh, i of the nigh valuable materials in early on Iran where the blueprint served to brand clothing for the nobility. At this fourth dimension, the Iranian nobility wore distinct uniforms called Khalaat, historically, the design was commonly plant on the Khalaat uniforms.^[16] It is stated that at some point in the 15th century, Boteh was transported from Persia to Kashmir.^[xiii] In the aforementioned century, in the 1400s, some of the earliest recorded Kashmir shawls were produced in Bharat, records from the 1500s, during Emperor Akbar's reign over the Mughal people in this area indicate that shawl making was already fashionable in Bharat prior to Mughal conquest which took place in the early 1400s.^[15] It has been stated that during Emperor Akbars reign over the Mughal empire, Boteh Jehgeh shawls were extremely popular and stylish. While one shawl was traditionally worn previously, it was during the dominion of Emperor Akbar that the emperor decided to wear two shawls at a time to serve every bit a status symbol. Along with wearing the shawls oft, Emperor Akbar as well used the shawls as gifts to other rulers and high officials.^[15] It is believed that past the 18th century, Kashmir shawls were produced in the paradigm that someone today would associate with modern paisley.^[13]

Paisley bandanas [edit]

A cherry bandana with a paisley pattern

While today some people associate bandanas with cowboys or Cholo culture, paisley bandanas were popular during the late 1700s and their popularity in the United States coincides with the American revolution. George Washington allegedly wore a paisley bandana as a scarf, the popular way of wearing bandanas at that fourth dimension.^{[ citation needed ]} In the late 18th and early on 19th centuries, paisley bandanas began to appear with political and military machine advertisements printed on them.^{[ citation needed ]} Such printed bandanas were prevalent during the early and mid- 20th century when World War I and World War Two were being fought. It was thought that by purchasing and sporting a pro-war paisley bandana the heir-apparent was helping to support their country in winning the state of war.^{[ citation needed ]} The paisley bandana started to characteristic in Western movies and thus became a symbol of the American West.^{[ citation needed ]}

Through the 1970s, paisley bandanas were worn past many blue collar and labor workers to keep dust out of their mouths and noses. The bandana's symbolism one time once again shifted in American minds, being associated with hard work.^{[ citation needed ]} Famous state vocalizer Willie Nelson began wearing bandanas when he moved from Nashville dorsum to Austin, Texas "only in time to grab the hippie wave cresting at counterculture center the Armadillo World Headquarters."^[23] Effectually the same time, bandanas besides became pop with motorcyclists, particularly with Harley Davidson riders and bikers."^{[ citation needed ]} In the 1970s paisley bandanas likewise became pop amid gangs in California, most notably with 2 well-known rival gangs, the Bloods who would wear carmine bandanas and the Crips who would wear blue bandanas.^[24]

Modern men'south tie, before 1996

Prince paid tribute to the rock and roll history of paisley when he created the Paisley Park Records recording characterization and established Paisley Park Studios, both named later on his 1985 song "Paisley Park". The Paisley Underground was a music scene active around the same time.

Paisley was a favorite blueprint element of British-Indian builder Laurie Baker. He has fabricated numerous drawings and collages of what he called "mango designs".^[25] He used to include the shape in the buildings he designed also.^[26]

In other languages [edit]

The modernistic French words for paisley are boteh , cachemire ("cashmere"; not capitalized, which would mean "Kashmir, the region") and palme ("palm", which – forth with the pino and the cypress – is one of the traditional botanical motifs thought to have influenced the shape of the paisley element as information technology is at present known).^{[6] [27] [ failed verification ]}

In diverse languages of India and Islamic republic of pakistan, the design's name is related to the word for mango:^[28]

• In Bengali: kalka ^[29]
• In Telugu: mamidi pinde', immature mango blueprint
• In Tamil: mankolam, mango blueprint
• In Marä thi: koyari, mango seed
• In Hindi/Urdu: carrey or kerii, means unripe mango^[30]
• In Punjabi: ambi, from amb, mango.^{[ citation needed ]}

In Chinese, it is known as the "ham hock pattern" (Chinese: 火腿纹; pinyin: huǒtuǐwén ).^{[ citation needed ]} In Russia, this ornament is known as "cucumbers" ( огурцы ).^{[31] [32]}

Boteh is a Persian word pregnant bush, cluster of leaves or a flower bud.^[33]

References [edit]

Citations [edit]

1. ^ Dusenbury and Bier, 48–50
2. ^ Oxford English Dictionary, Oxford .
3. ^ "Paisley: The story of a classic bohemian print". Archived from the original on 2018-05-27. Retrieved 2018-05-31 .
4. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-10 . {{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived re-create as title (link)
5. ^ "1968 Fender Paisley Telecaster and Telecaster Bass". xiv June 2011. Archived from the original on 2019-10-27. Retrieved 2018-06-10 .
6. ^ ^{a b} Indian Hand Woven Jacquard Jamavar Shawls, Zanzibar Trading, archived from the original on 2012-01-18, retrieved 2012-02-07 .
7. ^ ^{a b} "SID.ir | A GLANCE AT THE FIGURE OF BOTEH JEGHEH (Ancient MOTIF)". www.sid.ir. Archived from the original on 2020-09-10. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
8. ^ Dani, Ahmad Hasan; Masson, Vadim Mikhaĭlovich (1999). History of Civilizations of Key Asia. Motilal Banarsidass Publ. ISBN978-81-208-1407-3. Archived from the original on 2020-09-x. Retrieved 2019-12-24 .
9. ^ ^{a b} Ringer, Monica (2011-12-13). Pious Citizens: Reforming Zoroastrianism in India and Iran. Syracuse University Printing. ISBN978-0-8156-5060-vii. Archived from the original on 2020-09-ten. Retrieved 2019-12-24 .
10. ^ ^{a b c d} McGuire, Brian (2013-01-24). "Roots of the Paisley Pattern". Paisley Scotland. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-04 .
11. ^ Bakery, Lindsay. "Paisley: The story of a classic bohemian print". www.bbc.com. Archived from the original on 2019-12-03. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
12. ^ "What is paisley? | Macmillan Lexicon Weblog". 3 May 2018. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
13. ^ ^{a b c d e f} "Buta to Paisley An ongoing Journey - Laureate Legal Terms and...Paisley A motif- * Intensively used in ... palm tree leafage Pearl Academy, ... In Kashmir the name used to describe this motif is buta or buti". pdfslide.net. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
14. ^ ^{a b} Maskiell, Michelle (2002). "Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000". Journal of World History. xiii: 27–65. doi:10.1353/jwh.2002.0019. S2CID 144868279.
15. ^ ^{a b c} Karpinski, Caroline (November 1963). "Kashmir to Paisley". The Metropolitan Museum of Fine art Bulletin. 22 (3): 116–123. doi:10.2307/3258212. JSTOR 3258212.
16. ^ ^{a b} Novin, Guity. "A History of Graphic Design: Affiliate 92 - A history of Paisley or Boteh Jegheh Design". A History of Graphic Design. Archived from the original on 2020-02-27. Retrieved 2019-12-xix .
17. ^ Welters, Linda; Beasley, Elizabeth; Dee-Collins, Nicole; Gilcrease, Sallie; Lukens, Catherine (2017-01-01). "Second Chances for Paisley Shawls". International Textile and Wearing apparel Clan (ITAA) Annual Briefing Proceedings. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-xix .
18. ^ "The Prohibition Years, 1686–1759", Le Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes [The Museum of Printed Textiles], archived from the original on February 21, 2008, retrieved February 3, 2008 .
19. ^ ^{a b c} Andrews, 1000000, Across the Fringe: Shawls of Paisley Design, Victoriana, archived from the original on February 16, 2008, retrieved February iii, 2008 . Heavily illustrated history of paisley fashions.
20. ^ "Paisley Museum and Art Gallery", About Uk, archived from the original on 2008-03-05, retrieved 2008-02-03 .
21. ^ "Printed 'Paisley' in the 19th Century", Le Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes [The Museum of Printed Textiles], archived from the original on March 5, 2015, retrieved February 3, 2008 .
22. ^ "Vancouver 2010: The Olympics of the Airheaded Pants", Tonic, archived from the original on 2010-02-23, retrieved 2010-05-21 .
23. ^ "9-Things-You lot-Didnt-Know-Most-Willie-Nelson". Retrieved 2021-01-19 . {{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
24. ^ "Indigenous Wearing apparel in the U.s.a.: A Cultural Encyclopedia2016 010 Edited by Annette Lynch and Mitchell D.Strauss Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia Lanham, Dr. Rowman & Littlefield 2015 10 + 326 pp. 9780759121485(print) 9780759121508(eastward-book) £49.95 $75". Reference Reviews. 30 (1): 17. 2016-01-eighteen. doi:10.1108/rr-09-2015-0225. ISSN 0950-4125.
25. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2008-ten-02. Retrieved 2016-01-09 . {{cite spider web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as championship (link)
26. ^ "The mango house". 2008-07-24. Archived from the original on 2016-02-07. Retrieved 2016-01-09 .
27. ^ Sharon B (Aug 29, 2006), A prune or a pickle: the procedure of working upward a small-scale pattern, Wordpress, archived from the original on January 19, 2015, retrieved February three, 2008 .
28. ^ "Paisley Pattern : The e'er favourite Fabric Pattern revisited – Run up Guide". Sew Guide. Archived from the original on 2018-02-02. Retrieved 2018-02-01 .
29. ^ Zaman Niaz (1993). The Art of KANTHA Embroidery (Second Revised ed.). Dhaka, Bangladesh: The Academy Printing Limited. p. 82. ISBN978-984-05-1228-7.
30. ^ "Urdu and Punjabi: Kerii". Archived from the original on 2015-06-24. Retrieved 2015-06-24 .
31. ^ "Журнал любопытных вещей | Paisley — благородный орнамент, "слеза Аллаха", турецкий боб или просто "огурец"". Archived from the original on 2017-01-05. Retrieved 2017-01-05 .
32. ^ "The All-time Guide | Узор Paisley". Archived from the original on 2017-01-05. Retrieved 2017-01-05 .
33. ^ "Boteh (Botteh, Paisley). Aryan Silk & Merchandise". www.heritageinstitute.com. Archived from the original on 2019-05-24. Retrieved 2019-06-04 .

Sources [edit]

• Dusenbury, Mary Thousand. and Bier, Carol, Flowers, Dragons & Pino Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art, 2004, Hudson Hills, ISBN 1555952380, 9781555952389, p. 48
• F. Petri, Origin of the Book of the Dead Angient Egipt. 1926. June part ii с 41–45
• С. Ашурбейли «Новые изыскания по истории Баку и Девичьей башни» Альманах искусств 1972 г, С.Ашурбейли «О датировке и назначении Гыз галасы в крепости» Элм. 1974 г.

Further reading [edit]

• Irwin, John (1973), The Kashmir Shawl, Victoria and Albert Museum, ISBN978-0-11-290164-eight .
• Levi-Strauss, Monique (1987), The French Shawls, Dryad, ISBN978-0-85219-759-2 .
• Reilly, Valerie (1987), The Paisley Design: The Official Illustrated History, Glasgow: Richard Drew, ISBN978-0-87905-317-eight .

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